Yellowstone Country

Observation, Approach, and Presentation

We’ve had an action-packed week in Yellowstone country. It began early Tuesday morning when our resident moose, Bullwinkle, decided to wage war on Jackie’s birdbath.

An hour later Yvon and I were on the water where he started out winning a battle with a gorgeous hooked jaw male brown trout he took on one of his famous soft hackles fishing it on his favorite bamboo rod, one the master Leon Hanson from Michigan crafted for him.

Yvon releases a nice brown trout.

Yvon releases a nice brown trout.

The following day I had the pleasure of fishing a few hours with the new US Ambassador to Japan and his wife. Both caught fine trout on caddis patterns and promised to return soon, for a full day on the river.

New US Ambassador to Japan takes a nice Madison rainbow on X Caddis.

New US Ambassador to Japan takes a nice Madison rainbow on X Caddis.

 

Most evenings Terry and I fished emerging caddis activity. You will see Terry sitting on the bank watching a big brown trout rising to emerging caddis pupae. A X Caddis Tan #16-18 and an amber Iris of the same sizes are the only caddis patterns needed for success. As with all our flies, they are easy to tie, highly visible and durable and fool lots of big trout.

Heads up! Here’s a large brown trout rising to emerging Caddis.

Heads up! Here’s a large brown trout rising to emerging Caddis.


Today we arrived on the river early to find rising like wolves to Pink Lady mayfly spinners. I knotted on my new foam-hackle spinners and began taking several nice browns and rainbows until they abruptly quit rising. A short time later we noticed they’d moved into the soft-frog water along the shoreline and were feeding on #24 emerging midges. Adding a long pull of 6x tippet and knotting on a #24 Zelon Midge proved deadly on these rising fish, for half-hour until they quit rising.

We did not sit on the bank long before fish began feeding on emerging caddis, their explosive rises giving us the clue to switch to patterns like our Tan X and Iris Caddis, tied with sparkling-trailing shucks that imitate impaired emerging adults stuck in their shucks, and recognized by big fish as easy prey. We took several nice trout until the rise-forms changed, again. Now the large fish sipped casually, moving slowly to take PMD Duns drifting in the seams and behind boulders along the shore. A switch to #18 PMD Sparkle Duns was all that was needed to fool most sippers.

Eperorous spinners bring up big trout during morning spinner falls on Madison.

Eperorous spinners bring up big trout during morning spinner falls on Madison.

By close observation, careful approach and presentation with proper fly patterns we had a banner week of fishing Yellowstone country. I hope to see you see soon. And now, I’m heading to my fly tying table to replenish flies used this week.

Man In Yellowstone

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This is a photo of the two remaining wick - i - ups in Yellowstone National Park.

According to the History of Man in Yellowstone, these wick - i - ups were used about 1800 by Tukuarikas or Sheepeater Indians. Tuka means mountain sheep and Aika means eat or Sheepeater Indians. They were a small tribe of about 400 who were friendly but, timid people. The only Indians to live permanently in Yellowstone. They were the weakest of all mountain clans, they did not possess horses or firearms, their tools were of the crudest type. They were a slender, wiry people who wore furs and skins.

The Sheepeaters traveled on foot in very small groups accompanied by large dogs which were sometimes packed or used to pull travois. In the winter they lived in caves along the Gardner River, the summer season they ventured to the higher plateaus following the game. There they erected skin covered lodges or wick - i - ups as seen in the photo.

The Tukuarikas vanished from the scene as the white man invaded their refuge. They left without a contest for ownership or treaty of cession, however to see these shelter withstand the elements of time for so many years makes this beautiful area spiritual to us.

Wishing you a Happy Holiday Season and a healthy 2021.

Craig and Jackie

Call to Action, The Time to Act is NOW!

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There are bedrock values we all share as Americans. We believe in fair play, we believe in looking out for our neighbors, we believe in liberty tempered by responsibility and we believe it is our duty as businesses owners and members of local communities to take care of the natural world and the one we’ve made, to operate in a sustainable and community building way.

 

Most of us believe that science should lead discussions and decisions we make about our natural world. Science warns us climate change is THE single greatest threat to native and wild fish on the planet. If we care about our fisheries, if we value our rivers, lakes and streams, and other natural resources it should be our hope, no not hope, but our obligation to pass these valuable and unimpaired resources on to our kids and grandkids.

 

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These unimpaired natural resources are the primary economic driver of solid positive economic prosperity we as business owners see in Southwestern Montana and Yellowstone country, and around the world. Here in my home state they are the backbone of our local economies. In our sparsely populated state with just a million residents, tourists come to fish and experience native and wild trout, spending over $3 billion a year that supports nearly 40,000 jobs. Nationally, according to the US Department of Commerce outdoor recreation contributes over $650 billion a year to the US economy, over 2% of our national gross domestic product.

 

Over the past 30 years Yellowstone and Southwest Montana, which is known around the world as “The Trout Heart of America”, has felt the predicted impacts of global climate change: increased fire occurrence, decreased winter snowpack, higher summer air and water temperatures, lower fish numbers and retreating alpine glaciers. The journal of “Science” reports that our warming climate is the primary source of the decline in snowpack, which is our natural water storage system and the primary source of water in many regions. A healthy winter snow pack, that melts away slowly through the warm summer season, feeds our rivers, lakes and streams, allowing them to maintain cool flows throughout the warm summer months. For cold water fish species like trout, this is the safety valve that gets them through the warmest times of the year.

 

The stark reality is that if nothing is done to reduce greenhouse gas emissions, the primary culprit behind climate change and warming weather and water, native and wild trout habitat in the western United States could be reduced by 50 percent-and even more in some locations. I know everyone is concerned when science tells us that every natural system that supports life on earth is in a state of decline. Some folks respond to these warnings from 99% of scientist by denying their validity, or they make excuses that we do not have the expertise or time to worry about this, or the hope that someone might figure it out or technology will save us in the nick of time.

 

According to the world’s leading scientists like EO Wilson, the 21st century must become the “Century of the Environment”. If our government, science and the private sector do not begin to cooperate immediately to address the issues like climate change, the earth will lose its ability to regenerate life as we know it. In other words, we are toast.

 

While this depresses many anglers and business owners, I find action is the cure for depression and the basis for our environmental business philosophies. One reason for being in business is to make sure our government stops ignoring our environmental crisis. Action is necessary if we are going to be doing business in the generations to come, evil wins if we sit on our couches and do nothing. We must exert our power as individuals and businesses to defeat climate change. In other words, it is up to us to save the planet.

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That is why our Fly Fishing Climate Alliance has pledged to become carbon neutral in the next 10 years, by 2030. Our FFCA is an alliance of fly-fishing shops, guides and outfitters, lodges and brands who believe it is our responsibility to solve the climate crisis so we can save our planet, our businesses and native and wild fisheries. And, we will lead the way, by our example and shine the light of science to solve the climate problems. We will work to inspire others to rise to this challenge and defeat the single greatest challenge to our fisheries and ourselves, “Climate Change”. Please join us for our kids, grandkids and all future generations to come.

 
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ACTION IS THE CURE

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No doubt, these are challenging times. But, while many who love wild places, wild and native fish and wildlife, and public land sit on their couches, mope and complain and let their conservation compass spin out of control, I find action is the cure.

Some question whether advocacy is dead, others complain they are losing their wealth during the pandemic and can no longer help fund the conservation programs they used to. Others point to figures like John Muir and Aldo Leopold and say these men were “dinosaurs”, and, “their conservation ethic is no longer found in society today”.

I ask these folks, “who created the grassroots advocacy and activism we’ve seen in the past”. The advocacy that created our nation’s wilderness areas and protects wild places, wildlife and public lands. That advocacy that keeps these places and their wildlife in the public trust in face of mounting pressure to open public lands to harmful development and activity.

So, who was it, you ask? It’s NOT Leopold or Muir. It is the tiny grassroot advocacy and activist organizations that organize bake sales, and raise money and awareness, and fight for the public trust, wildlife, wild and native trout and wild places. Organizations like Montana Trout Unlimited, Madison River Foundation, Mountain Journal, Western River Conservancy, Montana Sportsman’s Alliance, and Trust for Public Land. These well-run, effective and efficient groups are not the bloated national organizations that owe favors to dark money funding groups. They get the conservation job done for all of us who love wild and native trout, wildlife and wilderness. Please consider supporting these organizations, today in these troubling times they need our help more than ever.

 

This week Jackie and I met with Cottonwood Environmental Law Center to discuss their continued work keeping the Gallatin River’s water free from the potential negative impacts of Big Sky’s wastewater pollution. We also discussed bighorn sheep restoration in the Gravelly Mountain Range, a program we’ve worked hard to support and raise awareness of. Stay tuned.

 

Jackie has come out of retirement to join Mountain Journal’s Board of Directors. If you love Yellowstone country and its wilderness, wildlife and wild-native trout go to their website and sign up to receive their award winning and free email newsletters. Stay informed. Remember, MoJo believes science should lead the discussions and decision of the conservation and environmental issues facing Yellowstone country today and into the future. Support MoJo with an important donation too! It will keep awesome Yellowstone wildlife stories, science and informed decision making coming to your door

 

In mid-September I look forward to being a part of a 30-minute video podcast aired on Earth X Television called “Round the Fire”. Myself and Trevor Neilson, Co-Founder and CEO of 1X Investments will discuss climate change and other important conservation and environmental issues from a fishing and hunting perspective. I’ll keep you posted once the exact date and time is announced.

 

This week we explored a few small streams in Yellowstone country. You’ll see photos of our fishing junkets here. I enjoy these small streams and some large trout that can inhabit them.

In my little guidebook, The Yellowstone Fly-Fishing Guide, I discuss dozens of smaller waters in Yellowstone detailing what kinds of trout inhabit them, hatches and best flies and times to fish them and much more. The book discusses all Yellowstone waters. I am proud to donate proceeds from the sale of this book to the “Yellowstone Cutthroat Trout Program in the Park”. For more information on this program go to “Yellowstone Forever” and click on the link. The book is available by going to Blue Ribbon Flies website as well as on Amazon. Order from Blue Ribbon Flies and I’ll autograph it!

Thanks from Yellowstone’s native Yellowstone Cutthroat trout for your support.

 

Thank you for reading my report and blog, stay tuned here for more to follow soon.

And, have a great time enjoying and exploring Yellowstone country rivers, lakes and streams. They offer incredible wilderness fly fishing experiences that last a lifetime.

Help Support The Montana Water Rights Protection Act

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This is very important. If you love native and wild trout like I do please join me in supporting Montana Trout Unlimited’s “Montana Water Rights Protection Act”.

Make sure you go to their website and learn about this important piece of legislation that will protect stream flows, ensure healthy fish, improve fisheries and help us protect our coldwater resources while strengthening local economies.

This is urgent so act today! Thanks in advance for your support!

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My fishing buddy Terry and I have been fishing the Firehole and Madison Rivers in Yellowstone National Park. They’ve offered up some of the best early season dry-fly fishing we’ve seen in years but, that will change as the weather and waters warm and flows diminish. We might have a week or 2 left of stellar dry fly fishing left so get there ASAP if these streams are in your fishing plans!



Yesterday we explored a piece of small water before hitting the Madison below Elk Meadow. Pale Morning Duns were beginning to emerge and a few fish rose to the duns. Check out the photo of Terry who'd delivered an accurate cast to a brown trout that rose to his fly. The next photo shows him landing that trout.

Brown trout rising to dry fly.

Brown trout rising to dry fly.

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Mid-day emergences of PMDs have provided anglers with great dry-fly fishing during their time on the water. Evening caddis activity has been strong as well. White Miller Caddis will continue to emerge on warm evenings and the number of fish that rise to them can be spectacular. Check the photo of the batch of Fluttering White Miller Caddis I tied this spring. What is left of those 20 dozen flies are in Blue Ribbon Flies bins so get their quick before they run out if evening caddis fishing is in your plans.

If you fish the Madison River in the park expect to take brown trout like the one pictured finning above my wading shoe along a favorite piece of water in the Madison River. Many of these larger brown trout are Hebgen Lake residents that ran up the river to spawn last fall and remained in the river in winter and spring. They’ll stay until the water temperatures warm, then return to the lake to take advantage of cooler water for summer before running back up the river to spawn this September. These lovely brown trout will come up on cloudy afternoons for emerging PMD and BWO mayflies, and in the evening for emerging caddis.

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I had to take today off to catchup, tie a few flies to replenish those I’ve used, and get ready for Yvon to arrive this evening. We’ll fish and explore off-the-beaten-path waters the next several days. And I’m looking forward to showing Yvon sections of a local stream that have recently been restored along with a couple future conservation projects we hope to work on. Please stay tuned here, reports to follow!

Thank you for reading, and please support Montana Trout Unlimited’s “Montana Water Rights Protection Act” today!

Remembering Yellowstone Park Fishing Season Openers

Brown trout taking dragon fly nymphs along shoreline Biscuit Basin on the Firehole River.

Brown trout taking dragon fly nymphs along shoreline Biscuit Basin on the Firehole River.

The West Gate to Yellowstone National Park opened this morning, and with it so did the park’s general fishing season. Driving through the entrance gate along the Madison River brings a flood of memories of years-gone-by opening days.

Today I’m reminded of missing friends, those I have shared this road and rivers with on opening day, some long ago, others for the first time. Every one of those departed friends shared my love of the park and its waters.

Firehole River brown trout.

Firehole River brown trout.

I pulled into places friends and I shared names for, names like:  “Cinnamon Roll Bank” on the Madison where Paul told me he’d expect I would have to wheel him in a chair to his favorite spot on the river when he legs failed, Fred’s “No Fail Pool” on the Firehole where he never failed to find rising trout, Lou’s “Lost Glasses Run” on the river where his good friend once lost his glasses and they never found those glasses but did find lots of trout rising to caddis, and other spots I stopped at too. I sat and thought of these anglers who so loved the waters and were a big part of the rivers and the park for me too.

 I thought of Howard Back the author who wrote “The Waters of Yellowstone with Rod and Fly”. Back’s little book sits at a special place on my desk. I read it every year, and have since my old friend Herb Wellington presented it to me nearly 40 years ago. I scored another copy of this hard-to-find book last year, published in 1938, last fall and will donate it to the West Yellowstone Public Library this week.

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It was great to get in the park this morning, to think of old friends and reminisce. I thought about the time as police chief of West Yellowstone when one of my patrolmen ran me down on my day off while I fished near the Barns’ Pools. He came slugging through mud that day to alert me of an emergency meeting of the West Yellowstone Town Council when biker gangs came to Town in 1979. I managed to meet with the council, then separately with the bikers as I still wore my waders. We avoided any issues due to those meetings. In later years I’ve fished with some of the bikers who’ve turned fly-fishers, now mostly retired as am I from COP. I could go on with more stories, and someday might, but let’s get back to today.

 

Social distancing on the Firehole River.

Social distancing on the Firehole River.

I arrived at “Garbage Can Run” above the cascades on the Firehole to fish. The 3 rocks Cal Dunbar and I stacked there in spring of 1989 were still there. We put them there, near a pine stump, while we shared a lunch spot along the river while fishing a Pale Morning Dun hatch that spring, the year after Yellowstone’s ’88 fires. The pine stump long deteriorated but the rocks remained. Cal was a strong as those rocks, and needed to be as Town Councilman. Funny how you remember little things like the 3 rocks, but I’ll never forget Cal.


I knotted on a pull of 5x tippet and tied on a Nick’s Soft Hackle Caddis in honor of Nick Nicklas. Nick was a best friend, and worked with us from 1981 until he passed away 6 years ago this fall. I caught a couple plump rainbows and one thin 14” brown trout and called it a day. I will pen in my fly-fishing journal and logbook reporting of another “opening day in the park on the Firehole River”, but needless to write about it because they’re all locked down in memory.

Caddis on Firehole River.

Caddis on Firehole River.

 

Thanks for reading my rambling. It is the beginning of another fishing season in Yellowstone country and I hope to share more with you about the fishing, wildlife and wild places in the weeks ahead. Stay tuned!

New Yellowstone family member.

New Yellowstone family member.

GREAT NEWS!!! Lake trout numbers decline on Yellowstone Lake!

Phlox wildflowers.

Phlox wildflowers.

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Since 1996 Jackie and I have been involved as Board of Directors and Emeritus Board members of Yellowstone Forever, formerly known as Yellowstone Park Foundation. For several years it’s been an honor to serve on these boards.

And, even after retiring from them we continue to work hard with Yellowstone Forever helping fund, and raise public awareness for their ongoing “Save the Yellowstone Cutthroat” and native fish conservation projects in Yellowstone National Park.

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One continuing program has been the ongoing gill netting of invasive lake trout on Yellowstone Lake. Several years we as a YPF Board committed to supporting this program with a $1 million dollar yearly gift to the help fund the project. Working with Wyoming Trout Unlimited Special Project Manager Dave Sweet has been filled with successes, and rewards beyond words. For 12 years Dave’s tireless efforts have finally brought victory within sight. For the first several years some doubted success could be achieved, but with Dave’s hard work and that of Yellowstone Forever’s JD Davis and Yellowstone National Park’s staff, Yellowstone Lake’s irreplaceable and invaluable cutthroat trout are seeing the benefits of the project. Check out this article and contribute if you can.  LINK HERE.


Glacier Lily

Glacier Lily

Shooting stars.

Shooting stars.

Glacier Lilies are ripe in Yellowstone country as are other spring wildflowers like Bluebells, Buttercups, Phlox and Shooting Stars. Within 50 yards from where I write this remain snowdrifts over 16 feet deep. As they recede in warmer springtime temperatures wildflowers show.

 

This morning 3 cow elk, their bellies sagging with the weight of the calves they carry, walked through our aspens below the house. We’ll see their calves within the next 2 weeks as they begin to drop them. Some cow elk have learned to have their young close to homes to avoid lion, wolf and grizzly predation.

 


Spring Baetis (BWO’s) are still emerging on the Madison River along with midges. This past winter and early spring season has offered up some of the best midge fishing we’ve seen in several years. I’ve been on the river over 60 days since February fishing dry flies to rising trout. The tiny BWO’s emerged 3 days in a row earlier this week. Yesterday though, even in idea conditions, the tiny olive duns took a day off to recharge after 3 strong afternoons of hatching. Ideal conditions for strong emergences are overcast, cool afternoons with rain or snow bringing on the best hatches.

Midge and BWO

Midge and BWO

Last-evening I decided to check out the river above the West Fork in hopes of finding a few fish rising. Arriving at 7p.m. winds were calm, light rain fell and fish rose to midges. Interestingly the fish were all large, and all brown trout. Don’t you just hate fishing to big-fat, rising brown trout? I scored a couple browns that ran and jumped several times. The fish were very healthy and colored up like fall run brown trout. The fish came up for a #18 Scotty’s Midge. I’ll be there again this evening and I hope to see you soon on one of Yellowstone country’s rivers!

Until next time, please stay safe and keep well, and thank you for reading my blog!